Meat

Browned hard, braised in onion-soup broth, and finished in a gravy built in the same pan. The only way to get them wrong is to stop cooking too early.

Light smoke, olive oil, lamb rub and rosemary rubbed into the whole leg, mopped with onion-soup broth, and carved standing on the bone.

The closest thing to smoking a brisket, done in half the time. A three-bone rack, brisket rub, and either a wrap or an onion-soup mop — not both.

The offcut from trimming a rack, and the most underrated thing on the pit. Brisket rub rather than pork rub, and all that extra collagen makes them easier to smoke than a rib.

Long, slow and heavily rubbed. Hickory first, pecan after, wrapped once the colour is there, and pulled by hand into something almost feathery.

A whole rack trimmed down to the Compton Cut, mustard and pork rub, and low smoke with apple juice from the moment the crust sets. Done by the bend, not by a number.

A whole packer brisket, salt and pepper, oak and pecan, and most of a day. Fat left on, wrapped when the bark is right, and judged by feel rather than by the clock.

Beef and pork ragu simmered most of an afternoon, béchamel instead of ricotta, and fresh sheets between the layers.