Pork Spareribs

Trim to the Compton Cut

A whole rack is ribs plus flap meat. Dry it off, lay it on a board with the narrow end pointing toward you and the rib tip on top. The rib-tip bone runs along the top edge; slide a sharp knife under its bottom edge, guide it across that bone, then cut toward the end until the bone has gone. Flip the slab, find the lean flap meat hanging off the centre of the back, and cut that off too.

The flap you cut off freezes, and it is what breakfast sausage is made of. Leave the membrane alone — pork ribs keep theirs.

Mustard, pepper, rub

Spread a thin, even layer of mustard all over the ribs, rubbing it in and making sure there are no clumps. If you want a little more flavour, black pepper goes on first, before the rub. Then the pork rub: season the back side lightly, then go heavier on the meaty side. Add a second layer on top and gently pat it in — you want a crust, not a dusting.

Light the pit

Get the pit to 130°C, running about seventy percent oak and thirty percent pecan. If you want hickory in there too, go roughly a third each of oak, pecan and hickory. Let the wood burn off before the ribs go on.

Smoke, meaty side up

Ribs go in meaty-side up. Watch the temperature and every time it dips, add a little more charcoal and wood. Applewood can go in with a light hand — it darkens the smoke, so do not overdo it. After about two hours you can move to pecan and charcoal the rest of the way.

Start spraying

Once the ribs have that reddish colour and the crust is solid — after about two hours — start spraying them with apple juice. You want enough to see the moisture on the whole slab. The juice revives the rub and it will start building a proper crust. From then on, spray every time you open the pit.

Test the bend

Open the pit, pick the slab up at the centre with a pair of tongs, and look at it. You are looking for a nice bend — rubbery, not slack. Feel the bone at the toughest part of a rib: it should have some bounce, and feel as though you could almost pull it out if you twisted it.

If it bends and breaks, it is overcooked. If it has no bounce at all, it is not done. The bend comes before the break.

Spray and rest

When the ribs are ready, give them a last spray, pull them off the pit and let them rest before you cut into them.

Carve from the middle

Cut lengthwise down through the middle of the rack first, then off each half. Start from the middle — that first rib on the small end is not worth much. Have the bone side facing up so you can see the groove between the ribs; they curve down the back, so slice down between them for clean, even cuts.

On a grill instead

Set a charcoal grill up for indirect heat with the same seventy-thirty oak and pecan, and let the wood burn off before the grate goes on. Put the seasoned ribs on the side away from the charcoal and wood, cover, and leave the vent in the lid open above the ribs. Check every thirty minutes and add wood chunks each time they burn out; on the second load a chunk of applewood can go in with the rest. Once the rub is set and the crust looks solid — after about an hour — start spraying with apple juice every time you open the grill. They are done when you can feel tenderness and a little pull between the bones at the thickest part of the rib. They will not be quite as tender as slow-smoked ribs, but they should not be tight either. Spray, rest ten minutes, then carve as above.

If the colour is getting too dark, move the lid vent over the charcoal instead of over the meat. If it keeps darkening and the ribs are still not finished, wrap them in butcher paper or foil and put them back on.